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I had a 4th axis (I know, not the same thing, but..) it started to freak out. fire up the machine and it would spin uncontrollably, jerky, or not at all. Turned out the glass encoder disc had cracked and then shattered.

Looks neat. But I don’t see much advantage to it over a slant bed lathe. The small footprint is a plus. It also appears to have suffered a catastrophic crash bad enough to break a tool out of the turret leaving that position useless. It would have to go pretty cheap at auction

Your kwikway reborer looks like it has some unique capabilities. If you can afford the space, it may be worth keeping. Especially if you have work for it

eBay has one listed for $599...

No problem.

For what you were asking for the live center, I would have paid shipping

Upon closer look, it is stamped right on it.

Let me know if it becomes available again. Thank you. I would have spoke up sooner had I known it was an MT5

I'm interested in the live center if it isn't already spoken for. it will have to ship to northern California

Got some time to pull apart the table traverse box: Looked like it was full of peanut butter. The lube line was eaten up and allowed a bunch of "stuff" to get in. The taper bearings on the worm gear were ruined. Fortunately, somehow, the rest of it looks mostly undamaged.

Nice kit machines. If no bites here, you may have some luck in the forum which shall not be named. Ebay and craigslist are also good places for those types of listings.

can't see the picture

for a .032" tool nose radius, you would only see about .004" (.11mm) difference in your X and Z values on a 45deg. taper. If you really want to be able to see it clearly, increase your tool nose radius to something huge, like 1.0" or 25mm. I would recommend cutting air for this exercise.

Running along the X or Z coordinates, you will not see a difference. It will likely only show up in XZ moves. You may be able to see it at the points where it transitions from X to XZ to Z. This being said, the difference will be so small and the numbers will change so rapidly, there is little...

The first image is a little deceiving. I think it's a matter of perspective that it appears the bolts are way outside the chuck body. The nuts are towards the outside but still fully within the master jaws to allow plenty of adjustment for re-machining the jaws. If anything, I might consider...

I square off the ends, then stand it up in a vise. Put a threading bar in a toolholder and use it like a single point thread mill. The program calls a subroutine to step down your desired pitch, feed the tool one way, incrementally step down again, and feed back. Loop the sub according to how...

I made the jaws. I had some 1045 2-1/4" square stock I cut them out of and didn't bother making them narrow to match the master. They are a good tight fit to the chuck and the nut is entirely within the master. Didn't occur to me that jaws could be too wide. Pie jaws are much wider and nobody...

The runout is showing up on the portion of the jaws that is bored through and is clamping on a cylindrical surface. It is not running up against a step where issues with a rough cut or burr will affect it.

I think this thing is done for. After talking to a couple places that rebuild chucks, it sounds like the cost will rival or exceed that of a new one

It's a 10" chuck on an A2-8 spindle nose. 96mm spindle bore, 76mm ID on the draw tube and 85mmx2 thread. I do like the versatility of the serrated master jaws. I'm leaning towards buying new, but I (like everyone) don't want to spend a fortune.