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The Swiss collets I was getting from S & M had carbide pads, that could have been why they were making them to order, they definitely aren't rare, they stopped stocking them years ago it seems. S & M was cheaper than Hardinge, but the lead time was the killer. Have you looked at Lyndex? Back...

Last I checked S&M was making the Swiss collets I use to order and quoted 5-6 week lead time, so I started getting them from Hardinge.

Last I bought from Hardinge they shipped a collet and bushing set, smaller than 5c's in two separate boxes and charged me $45 for UPS ground for a 300 mile trip. I was shocked when I looked at the shipping charge.

Comparing it to the vehicle it looks like a floor model, not a desk top. I was offered a floor model for free before I moved to Virginia, it even had the axis motors, nice and clear. I knew it was heavy and when it bent the axle on my heavy duty dolly I gave up. On yours I would have used an...

Yes, or so it seems.

135 cuts with less pressure but more likely to walk, 118 cuts with more pressure but is more likely to stay on center.

I have found if you get too long and skinny it is faster to use multiple drills because the long shank in free air can flex.

You can do a pre plunge like .003 over a little more than the champer depth and the tool won't deflect.

I still see that they are running the same tight ship in the for sale section at PM, NOT! I guess the OP didn't get the message about manual turret lathes not being worth a bucket of chewing tobacco spit these days. I own one, when I die I will have a friend put a sign on it, runs good, comes...

I would just punch that bore out with a 2 flute end mill and finish with a boring bar. There probably will be jobs that swarf will dictate different approaches. I have found on a part that size I would go .160 deep on diameter, feed rate of .020, 2,000 rpm for roughing passes, that breaks the...

Do not buy any Chinese 6061, paying more for domestic is well worth it for production lathe work.

I actually know someone close to you but he isn't one of the favor trading type. If it was me I would make you one on my CNC as long as you were buying the pizza and beer.

If you haven't done it before two flute end mills are great for roughing out the front side of that bore and similar ones on a lathe.

You could use an I.D. groove tool, insert style for more projection, but I think you will have chip wrapping issues causing deflection or bad finish.

You should list your location in case someone here is close by.

McMaster sells various sized tapered rubber plugs that are good if you run pipe, tubing, or a part with a through hole from slugs. Nothing is worse than pissing coolant all over the floor.

I guess I got lucky, I had two identical machines long since scrapped that came with a boat load of spindle liners that fit the machine I replaced them with.

I just use home made pullers that are like circular electrical connector sockets., so I cannot speak for the one size fit all types. If you have a bar feeder with constant pressure on the bar you can get away without a wide range of spindle livers, unless your running real small stock. If using...

Are you using a bar feeder or just running without a pusher and 4 foot or so bars?

Even larger than that, I have found smaller insert bring bars do not have enough projection between the cuttung edge and bar. You can also get boring bars that have carbide braised on a steel shank.