"New" machine day

[Mud]

I had the knee support for a horizontal I had. Never used it because the machine was so rigid without it. And it looked like it had never been used. Maybe doing something way out on the end of the arbor and knee travel it has a benefit.

 

[Vancbiker]

I spent some time long, long ago on a #4 Polamco. We had the knee support but I never saw it used. We did have a steel job that used an 8” diameter by 1”wide stagger toothed slotting cutter. 2” deep in the part in one pass. HSS so only about 50 RPM. Don’t recall the feed but it was pretty aggressive. Ran fine without the knee support.

 

[MwTech Inc]

The back side of your table should be dead square with the column face......makes it real easy to use as a reference to face off stuff.

If you don't know the history slap a bunch of Vactra #2 on the ways before you move too much around.
Keep the oil system filled if it uses wicks.
Check the oil system out, make sure oil is getting to everything.
When cutting, lock down all the axis not being moved.
When you start cutting ,most folks start out pretty slow...lol...but these things like to feed.
Once you run it a bit, you should be able to hear how she's cutting.
Info on the web about RPM's and feed rates depending the dia of the cutter.

Arbors, hard to keep one dead perfect straight, a few thou off is no big deal as there is a bit of clearance on the cutter anyway.
Also, anytime the arbor comes apart it MUST be absolutely clean and the spacers MUST have Zero chips etc on the ends.
You are squeezing the whole mess together and anything between the spacers will/can "bend" the arbor.
Only remove or tighten the arbor nut while the arbor is in the head and the support is holding it, if you remove the support and crank on the nut....... bye bye arbor.
The arbor nut has to be pretty tight. Support should have it's own oil "tank" , just keep it centered on the support bearing.
Last for now, the closer you keep the cutter to the column and the support to the cutter the more rigidity you will have especially when making big deep cuts. There is no rule you must always have the support bearing all the way out at the end of the arbor.
Forgot one important thing: do not climb mill ........things can get very crazy really quick.

 

[Vancbiker]

Forgot one important thing: do not climb mill ........things can get very crazy really quick.

The Polamco had a double nut on X with hydraulic actuator to take out backlash so it could climb mill just fine. The B&S across the aisle did not have anything so climb milling was risky.

 

[Mr. M]

The back side of your table should be dead square with the column face......makes it real easy to use as a reference to face off stuff.

If you don't know the history slap a bunch of Vactra #2 on the ways before you move too much around.
Keep the oil system filled if it uses wicks.
Check the oil system out, make sure oil is getting to everything.
When cutting, lock down all the axis not being moved.
When you start cutting ,most folks start out pretty slow...lol...but these things like to feed.
Once you run it a bit, you should be able to hear how she's cutting.
Info on the web about RPM's and feed rates depending the dia of the cutter.

Arbors, hard to keep one dead perfect straight, a few thou off is no big deal as there is a bit of clearance on the cutter anyway.
Also, anytime the arbor comes apart it MUST be absolutely clean and the spacers MUST have Zero chips etc on the ends.
You are squeezing the whole mess together and anything between the spacers will/can "bend" the arbor.
Only remove or tighten the arbor nut while the arbor is in the head and the support is holding it, if you remove the support and crank on the nut....... bye bye arbor.
The arbor nut has to be pretty tight. Support should have it's own oil "tank" , just keep it centered on the support bearing.
Last for now, the closer you keep the cutter to the column and the support to the cutter the more rigidity you will have especially when making big deep cuts. There is no rule you must always have the support bearing all the way out at the end of the arbor.
Forgot one important thing: do not climb mill ........things can get very crazy really quick.

Wow! I appreciate all of this information and advice!

 

[Doug]

Plus they are a PITA to use as every time you need to adjust the knee you have to unclamp and clamp the support. Especially when running the machine from the rear controls.

The "production" series of horizontal mills are a bed type, and the "head" moves up/down.

 

[MwTech Inc]

As of now there are 380 hits for milling cutters on the fleabay......... watch local auctions, usually sell in boxes for cheap........

 

[Vancbiker]

The "production" series of horizontal mills are a bed type, and the "head" moves up/down.

I’m not seeing how that works any better when using an arbor and overarm. Do you know of a picture so I can see how that’s set up?

 

[MwTech Inc]

Mr. M
Forgot....lol..
when you put a cutter on the arbor the key should extend so both collars next to the cutter engage the key. Once tightened the collars provide extra "grip" . I keep the wider collars next to the cutter ie: I don't put a 1/2 thick collar up against it.
If you need the room it's Ok to pull the overarm all the way forward and setup it up with the support all the way out. Unless you are doing really heavy work you'll be fine. Just make sure everything is tightened down.
One thing you will learn is clearance issues. A 4" cutter will have its available cutting depth taken up with the dia of the arbor. Then figure in clamps you need to miss....once you get onto it it's easy. So don't just buy tiny 3" cutters....

 

[Mud]

When I had mine I made steel soft jaws by hanging them over the back of the table and using a face mill in the spindle. Man you can take a big cut that way. Cutting downward is best. A vise that can be clamped on it's side is handy for some things. You can use it like a big facing lathe also.
What is the spindle taper?

 

[MwTech Inc]

Once I took bandsaw wheels and mounted them in the spindle on a shop made arbor, spun the wheel.
Put the cutting tool on the bed...makes a really big lathe....

 

[Garwood]

Once I took bandsaw wheels and mounted them in the spindle on a shop made arbor, spun the wheel.
Put the cutting tool on the bed...makes a really big lathe....

Yep. My HBM can swing about 16' in theory. I have done 4' twice now it wasn't bad. Just really makes you think when you're trying to sort out which handle to turn in which direction.

 

[MwTech Inc]

Just really makes you think when you're trying to sort out which handle to turn in which direction.

Yep

 

[Mud]

I bought a used lathe compound to use on the table of the mill I have now in case I ever need to mount it up for something unusual.