Kustomizer
Well-known member
There doesn't seem to be anything in my manual on the subject, a google search showed me a turret mounted level I don't have though I have a Starrett 12" machinery level.
Best process to level my 2017 ST10
- Thread starter Kustomizer
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Herding Cats
Hardplates
I usually find a machined surface somewhere around the headstock behind the sheet metal.
As far a small turning centers, I've tried to adjust taper on others machines by twisting the machine but never was able to get more than a few tenths. They are generally just to short and rigid to twist much.
I don't get too caught up about being level. With used manual lathes I purposely twist them to make up for some of the wear in the ways.
As far a small turning centers, I've tried to adjust taper on others machines by twisting the machine but never was able to get more than a few tenths. They are generally just to short and rigid to twist much.
I don't get too caught up about being level. With used manual lathes I purposely twist them to make up for some of the wear in the ways.
Turret fixture is pretty much standard for slant beds IME...
Mhajicek
Active member
Enough C4 will level it.
Kustomizer
Well-known member
I used the tailstock rails but am wondering if there was something better
Spruewell
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Are you installing a bar feed with it? If not, then level isn’t important beyond making sure the coolant flows. A special turret mounted leveling tool designed specifically for the job sounds like an amazing waste of money unless you are required to level lathes on a daily basis. I’m trying to remember the last time I actually put a level on a workpiece in the lathe. Nope, I don’t believe I ever have. However, there is likely a machined flat surface somewhere around the spindle that could be used to put your 12” level on and dial it in to dead level. By the way, I have leveled all my lathes and left one unleveled (just adjusted the feet to get even pressure on them). The un-level machine runs just as accurately and reliably as the rest.
Kustomizer
Well-known member
I moved it 1000 miles about a year ago, made it so all the feet were about even, thinking it may move again, and it has run fine. I am going to put a barfeed and coolant in it and the pump end was about an inch high so I decided some degree of level was in order. I somehow this information would be in the book, but it isn't.
Spruewell
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I found a procedure on the HAAS website:
Spruewell
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Dang. I just read through that. Pretty useless without their special tool.. their spindle alignment guide doesn’t show you anything beyond how to check alignment either. I was hoping they would show you how to adjust alignment and by chance accidentally show something helpful for leveling the machine. You may have to chuck up a bar and hang it out far enough to set your level on. Maybe even machine a nice flat into the bar so you are less likely to drop your expensive machine level.
The point of mounting the level on the turret is not to level the machine, it is to measure twist in the bed.
The level is placed perpendicular to the Z axis, and the turret moved from end to end of the bed.
Normally when you buy a lathe, it comes with this fixture.
Kustomizer
Well-known member
I bought the machine new and unpacked it myself, the fixture was not there, fact is I did it twice as the first machine they brought was the NGC and since I had 9 old machines I wanted the new one to be the classic control, I made them bring me another machine which when it showed up it had all sorts of stuff they had to pack up and take back with them but no fixture though it looks like a 10 min project to make one, I may get to that and test for that too.
What year machine? We just got an ST20Y. Pretty sure they leveled it by removing the back panel. There *should* be a ground rail/surface to put a level on.
Kustomizer
Well-known member
2017, nothing came off in the initial setup but Selway out of Union City Ca did it, they are not my favorite but are who we has to use.
I will look and see what I see.
I put in a bar of 1 3/4 yesterday ( I have a 1 3/4 ) thru hole and it was level so likely it is good enough as it is but I will look under the back cover.
I have a bit of work ahead of me in getting the bar feeder in place as there is an interior wall and a job box rack in the way, if it ain't one thing, it's ten others.
From what I've read I need to get rid of the purple grease, replace it with something else and make sure it is getting where it is supposed to go
I will look and see what I see.
I put in a bar of 1 3/4 yesterday ( I have a 1 3/4 ) thru hole and it was level so likely it is good enough as it is but I will look under the back cover.
I have a bit of work ahead of me in getting the bar feeder in place as there is an interior wall and a job box rack in the way, if it ain't one thing, it's ten others.
From what I've read I need to get rid of the purple grease, replace it with something else and make sure it is getting where it is supposed to go
Now it's the brown stuff. Part # 93-3168
Kustomizer
Well-known member
One would think we would have lubricants figured out by now and not have machine builders experimenting on us
Fixed this ^.
Kustomizer
Well-known member
Perhaps, but to me it seems to carry over to cars, trucks, washing machines and damned near everything else with moving parts, the part that fails seems to always have some new way to lube it other than what had worked over the last 100 years or so, and god forbid we put a zerk fitting on anything anymore!
I bet my 1941 Indian motorcycle has 30 zerks on it, if it moves, you can lube it.
Kind of a different issue. No lube points on new shit is partially a reflection of the throwaway society we have created. Bet if you queried 100 kids under 35, I bet less than 10 would know what a zerk was.
Improvements in seal technology has extended the lube period needs for many moving parts. In the moto example, that classic Indian probably had bushings on most of the point with zerks. Newer machines with sealed ball and roller bearings at those same points may never need lubing during the expected service life and usage.
Sometimes though it is just a manufacturer cheaping out. I used to do a lot of Yamaha tweaking in the 70s through early 90s. They used plastic bushings in the swingarm pivots with no lube provision. Those would be noticeably sloppy after just a year or so. My first mod was to install bronze bushings and zerks. Those held up much better but still got some slop after a few years. Switched to a sealed needle bearing setup and never touched it again.