Taper pipe plugs for expanding fixtures?

MwTech Inc

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Stainless does corrode if left in aluminum..however if a lube is used and this is a fixture...
my guess is the smoother thread will be better?
Wrong?
I just see repetitive in/out of a rough bolt cutting aluminum every time.......
 

DavidScott

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I have and it wofked fine. I don't remember how many cycles but not many, say around 20. I have had zero isdues with stainless bolts in 6061 so no idea what yall are talking about.

I would say you want a minimum of 6 to 8 segments, 4 isn't enough. Thread your holes the minimum needed to make the fixture useable as they will only get deeper with use.

The only fixtures like you need I have ever put a lot of use on I had to tighten from the backside so made tapered pucks instead of using NPT plugs. The closer your tapered element is to 80% of the fixture diameter the better.
 

Spruewell

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As Mach Ramsey said, it's a galvanic reaction. It takes time, but it is definitely something to be aware of. It can eat aluminum in a hurry when exposed to saltwater. A good lubricant that will act as a barrier will help a lot.
 

Garwood

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I went so cheezy on this and I have to say, it doesn't suck!
17096790208905049650305551059047.jpg1709679079435197879019285791182.jpg

These bosses are .5" tall, with a .25" slot around them for more flex. I went super lazy and just did 2 slots. The counterbores in the parts are .896". The bosses are .894".

I don't even measure these parts. They just need to look sexy. The chamfers are bang on so I'm good with the accuracy.
 

Garwood

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Oh, I used 3/8 npt flush plugs because they take a 5/16" hex key that fits through the .404" hole. And because I had a 3.0 Ford ranger block in my scrap pile that used them to plug the oil galley.
 

Garwood

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I program with
Nice. What do you program with? Now lets see the parts.
I Program with the Mastercam's most cutting edge software of 2006- X2 lol.

It's just a spacer to adapt a transmission mount.17096856437545374015591946422115.jpg
 

MwTech Inc

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I've been running a couple
Ok ........am i missing something here.???
You have the mitee bites and you just made your own with pipe plugs......... :unsure:
Would it not been easier to just drill/tap and install them in the above base???

Not pickin...just askin.....
 

Garwood

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Ok ........am i missing something here.???
You have the mitee bites and you just made your own with pipe plugs......... :unsure:
Would it not been easier to just drill/tap and install them in the above base???

Not pickin...just askin.....
These parts have a .900" counterbore. The xyz pins only go up to 5/8"? I think. I only have the 1/2" size. And besides that you can't buy anything Mitee Bite makes efficiently. You order from a dealer online or by phone. They say it's in stock. A week later you call and discover it's backordered for 6 more weeks.

I like the "Flip onto pins" process. Just wanted a cheap/faster way to do it.

The parts I made using pipe plug expanders are a small part to a $1000 product I sell a couple of a month. It should be made from laser cut and formed 1/2" plate, but a chunk of 6061 is easy and fast for me to do since I don't have a 100 ton press brake. That might change so I don't want to spend $100 on a fixture parts to keep milling these. That's my thought process behind it.
 

Garwood

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Just to ad- I'm not a huge fan of vises. When I started out all my aluminum parts were made from big chunks of plate. Fixtures from the get go. When I started making smaller stuff I struggled with the "Buy thicker stock and turn 1/8" into chips on the flip". That 1/8" adds up and my cheapskate brain can't take it. So I'd do things like incorporate a heavy chamfer on one side or complicate the design of the part intentionally with two different profiles so the perimeter doesn't have to blend anywhere.

Previous to the expanding pins I was (and still am) using fixtures that flip onto bosses and use countersunk head SHCS in chamfers put in with reverse chamfer tools on op1 to hold them down. This is more complicated than the expanding pins. So I'm slowly moving that direction with many of my parts.
 

Mud

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Have you tried the Mitee Bite XYZ pins? https://www.miteebite.com/products/modular-xyz-xpansion-pins-2/

I've been running a couple 2nd op fixtures with the 1/2" size pins that's working good. I have some 3/8" pins on the way for another part.
Tthey look really slick also. My first thought was can they be used in larger holes and second was where can I get them quickly. Wish McMaster had them.

using fixtures that flip onto bosses and use countersunk head SHCS in chamfers put in with reverse chamfer tools on op1 to hold them down.
Can you post a photo? Is that a large hole putting FHSCSs at the edge, or is there a way to put in a countersunk hole in reverse?
 

Garwood

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This is a .500" drilled hole. Op1 i hold the plate with 2 serated grippers and 2 pitbull clamps. I reach through the hole with 45 chmfr tool in op1. Op2 drops onto bosses and 4 5/16" countersunk head bolts hold it down (part is 20" x 20"). Same3/16" bit runs the pitbull clamps and the screws.17097556471216948286239273465268.jpg1709755681898863861188214363431.jpg
 
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lobust

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Have you tried the Mitee Bite XYZ pins? https://www.miteebite.com/products/modular-xyz-xpansion-pins-2/

I've been running a couple 2nd op fixtures with the 1/2" size pins that's working good. I have some 3/8" pins on the way for another part.
Not MB specifically, but I have used these a lot:


Not just for round holes either, can machine any shape into them and they work great. Machine them in a slightly preloaded condition so that they fit perfectly to the part and collapse when you release the screw.
 
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