This looks like a job for Superglue!

[Spruewell]

Running a tight tolerance job on a 4th axis using probing to deal with thermal expansion and help maintain position. Suddenly things are out of whack by .0012 where they should be within .0005. Wiped down the probe and checked it for runout. I found it to be out by almost .0015 and started adjusting it. As I worked on dialing it in, things started getting weird. Indicator readings appeared unstable and I began to wonder if the ruby somehow became oblong or chipped. I then pulled it out of the machine to check the ruby for roundness and as I wiped it clean, realized it was moving on the end of the ceramic shank.



I’ve made these things “magically disappear” before, but never had one fall out. Now I’m looking for a suitable adhesive to put it back together with

 

[DavidScott]

Permanent loctite? Clean it real well first and I am confident it would work.

 

[Vancbiker]

5 minute epoxy.

 

[lobust]

I have had that happen once before, I superglued it and ordered a new one. For the price and peace of mind of a new stylus I wasn't inclined to bother looking for a permanent repair.

 

[Barbter]

Loctite 603 or 641 will hold it

 

[Spruewell]

Epoxy sounds like a good way to go. Super glue can sometimes break down with exposure to oils.

 

[Jashley73]

2-part epoxy - Until the new stylus arrives.

 

[Mud]

5 minute epoxy.

If you've never used this, it's awesome. Stays slightly pliable forever. It's resistant to gasoline, I use it to fix carbs and gas tanks. One repair is 30+ years old, I can still make a mark in it with a fingernail. I think if it resists gas it will also stand up to coolants. Used to be Devcon, now branded Loctite and available at Ace Hardware.

 

[DavidScott]

I had to glue cutters into shanks. Permanent stud loctite held better than good epoxy. I am not aware of any good epoxies that set in 5 minutes. Permanent thread locks are pretty damn good at gluing stuff together.

 

[Vancbiker]

5 minute epoxy from the variety store is gonna hit or miss. If you are buying a name brand like Loctite or West etc, it will be good and meet the published specifications. Those specs will be different than a slow set epoxy. For a probe tip any epoxy will be fine.

As far as using epoxy for holding tool shanks in holders, it’s the wrong material. Epoxy works best with relatively thick glue lines. In some applications it is recommended to use a spacing scrim sheet between surfaces being epoxy bonded to maintain constant and precise glue line thickness between components.

 

[MwTech Inc]

This is the real stuff......course its $36 bucks a cartridge, plus the gun plus the tips....... use it for component assembly.....did destructive testing at the 1 year anniversary ,literally had to beat the pieces apart, still pliable and could not really get it "off" the parts.
Just dripping out the tip onto metal requires much effort to remove.

 

[Vancbiker]

This is the real stuff......course its $36 bucks a cartridge, plus the gun plus the tips....... use it for component assembly.....did destructive testing at the 1 year anniversary ,literally had to beat the pieces apart, still pliable and could not really get it "off" the parts.
Just dripping out the tip onto metal requires much effort to remove.

Yep, the various grades of Scotch-Weld is the real thing. Wait til you are buying in these ~50 ounce kits. Somewhere on the far side of $400 nearly 10 years ago.

 

[MwTech Inc]

If that happens I'll be charging a lot more....lol

 

[Spruewell]

Had some West Systems 2 part epoxy I typically use on the model airplanes. Put it together and will likely never have to worry about it again until it pulls the magical “disappearing act”. I’ve used the 3M panel bond stuff on some other projects and it works fantastic. Has micro ballons (tiny glass beads) in it to maintain the proper joint gap. Unfortunately, I didn’t have that available to me for this one. Spendy too $$$!

 

[MwTech Inc]

I assume that means RC airplanes?
Great hobby, been doing it since 79

 

[Spruewell]

Yep. RC planes are a great way to relax. Wish I had more time to do it. I used to race warbirds. Nothing like 5 mustangs 15’ off the deck going over 200mph. Had one explode in mid air once. It was covered in chrome and red and when it turned to confetti, it looked like Christmas in July. Took a hard landing the heat before and I didn’t realize the tear in the covering was actually a fracture of the main spar.

 

[Vancbiker]

....... I’ve used the 3M panel bond stuff on some other projects and it works fantastic. Has micro ballons (tiny glass beads) in it to maintain the proper joint gap. Unfortunately, I didn’t have that available to me for this one. Spendy too $$$!

Yep, the micro balloons are another good method to control the glue line dimension. I had to learn quite a lot about bonding at the job. We made tail rotor assemblies for Sikorsky (now Erickson) skycranes that had bonded components. In the Sikorsky work instructions every single page had this warning.... "Failure of the bonded joint WILL result in loss of aircraft". Pretty sobering message.

 

[DavidScott]

My glue line was .003" which is about the minimum for Loctite 270. One of the epoxies I tried was a Scotch-Weld. No chance I got the mix off as I use a scale that measures to the second decimal point of a gram.

Modern FPV is really making me want to get back into RC planes. The video quality with camera pan/tilt and head tracking looks like way more fun than watching it fly from the ground.

 

[MwTech Inc]

it's really different flying looking thru the camera...took me a bit to catch on. Really have to focus as if you were in the plane.
I've pretty much tried or have done everything except turbines. No local facility will handle them easily.
Been a Futaba guy since day 1..... OS max is my preferred engine.....
Think my favorite of all planes is split between 2 ...a Sig Somethin Extra and a Proctor Antic Bipe.
Go to all the swap meets, have more than I will ever be able to fly or build, but I love rooting thru stuff looking for treasures.

 

[DavidScott]

My newest rc equipment was from the late 70s to very early 80s so it's nothing like I have ever experienced. I live out in the country where there is a lot of room to fly, no need to leave home to do it.