It's certainly possible, but I've never encountered a chuck that had enough wear in it to cause that...
You'll just have to take it apart and see!
Wandering runout
- Thread starter Spruewell
- Start date
You'll just have to take it apart and see!
Barbter
Well-known member
It's obviously repeatable....which is good....
Now lubed, is it less on the indicator than before?
If it is, then that's probably because the grease is (slightly) filling the gap....for a small while....
As Gregor said - you're going to have to strip it.
mach ramsey mn
Active member
Could you hard chrome the draw tube or sleeve the chuck?
Mud
Well-known member
Call Small Tools Inc in Ohio, they rebuild chucks and I'm pretty sure they sell Samchully.
Mud
Well-known member
Need to mix in sawdust and/or bananas for that to work right.Pump it more baby! It "fills" the wear
Stops the binding - makes the actuation work evenly and smoothly....
Kustomizer
Well-known member
Is there room to put a couple orings in the center block?
Mud
Well-known member
LOL! You mash it up and pour it through the oil fill hole. Works on rear axles and transmissions.
alphonso
Well-known member
Bacon rinds work good on main and rod bearings. Straight from the mouth of the used car dealer who was a client of my dad, his CPA.
mach ramsey mn
Active member
Serviceable? Build a bushing?
Mud
Well-known member
How can that be?
Spruewell
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I don't know how it could be so loose. This is the only chuck I have with this style of internal works. The guy from Samchully (apparently not a technician) had no answers. Building a bushing doesn't seem feasible as the center wedge plug is slotted to accept the master jaws. It would have to be built up, ground, heat treated, then ground again to get it back into tolerance. I think I would be better off buying a new chuck instead of spending my time doing that.
mach ramsey mn
Active member
Hard chrome, knurl the tube to get you by for this job? Moglice?
There are lots of better options, but it depends on how much better you need. The problems you are having with your Samchully are not typical, and indicate that either your chuck was defective from the start or has been badly neglected at some point in its life. IME Samchully chucks actually have less slop out of the box compared to Kitagawa.
Power chucks are a pretty deep rabbit hole. Wedge jaw mechanism chucks are the most suitable for job shop work, so stick with that for a start.
The best chuck I ever used was a Berg KHL, accuracy and repeatability was markedly better than anything else I've ever used, and even though it had already had a very long life before I got it, it was still tighter and more repeatable than a brand new Kitagawa. They achieve that by using a shallower taper in the wedge than others which means the jaw stroke is shorter as a tradeoff.
Rohm and SMW Autoblok are tied for second place IMO, but they both have a large range for lots of different applications, and offer other mechanisms beyond the basic wedge type that provide some quality of life features, for a cost. Quick change jaws, quick shift jaws, wedge-bar mechanisms that compensate for centrifugal force and provide higher speed security etc. etc.
I really like the Autoblok BH series, and they are my first choice usually when specifying a new machine. They have three radial keyways and tapped holes on the face, makes it super easy to mount fixtures on for special jobs, compared to basic Kitagawa pattern chucks where you have to either locate on the chuck OD and fix to the master jaws, or machine the chuck body to make mounting features.
Samchully and Kitagawa are bottom of the heap of the chucks I've used, but both are perfectly serviceable too. There's a reason why Kitagawa are the most common by far. They are kind of the baseline and are the most economical solution for most cases. I am pretty sure Samchully operate under license from Kitagawa as they are basically identical.
There are other options too that I am not familiar with - Forkardt for example.
If you have a large collection of jaws, that would probably swing me towards getting the same again or at least something that uses the same jaw pattern. There are a pretty good variety of top jaw patterns out there, even at the same chuck size.
If you get a different chuck, check the specifications carefully that your actuator provides a suitable force range.
alphonso
Well-known member
Those BH series are pretty damn good. Took us some 10 years to wear out a 30 year old chuck.
My experience with the SMW chucks with the quick change jaws is that they don’t survive much of a crash.