Mud
Well-known member
I thought he just didn't show up except as a blur?Bill, don’t you know that no camera can survive taking a pic of Garwood?
Is this Puma lathe decent?
- Thread starter Garwood
- Start date
You know, I never think about me being in pictures. I don't really have any with me in them. I think the only pictures of me are in my wifes phone and on her facebook page. I spose I should work on that? Someday when I'm long dead and my grandkids find a thumbdrive with thousands of pictures of machines and strange people with no context it won't make much sense will it? If I were in the pictures they might think I was something eh?
What's he saying to you? "Yep, I think its clear of the ground."
Barbter
Well-known member
I should have taken more pics of my businesses. Too busy working at the time
He was yelling "what the fuck are you doing jumping off that thing". I yelled back that I needed a picture to prove it did this.What's he saying to you? "Yep, I think its clear of the ground."
It was solid. He was being a baby about it.
Mud
Well-known member
Very common of racers also. Too busy working to stop and take photos. There are almost no photos around taken by racers of long ago of themselves or their equipment, and it becomes an issue when someone is restoring or authenticating an old race car. Most get authenticated by photos in magazines., and that's only the most famous ones. The only photos I have from at the track were all taken by others, and almost none from at the shop. I did learn to take a photo of every car/motorcycle project before it left the shop the first time, in case it didn't make it back in one piece.I should have taken more pics of my businesses. Too busy working at the time
I had the good fortune to see family slides from Mike Strickler, SS and AFX racer Dave Strickler's son, whose mother had taken lots of photos of every trip she joined them on, and of Dave building his cars. Photos of race rigs stopped at diners and motels, caravnning with Bill Jenkins and other 60s pioneers, riding across the continent in single cab ramp trucks and station wagons with trailers. OMFG no one would believe it today. It's a terrible shame there's not more documentation of that era. I remember clearly situations that I'd love to be able to do more than remember/tell stories about. Dave died at 49, Mike was young teens. I think is wonderful that he has these images of his family. My father died at 49 also, I wish I had more of him.
Now I take lots of shop photos and parts photos, but still none of myself, I just don't find me interesting.
Last edited:
Killing time waiting for chuck jaws to show up. I've had too many big boy lathes and not enough little ones. I've got piles of jaws and nuts for B212 Kitagawa's. Got stuff for B208's. I've got several complete spare B210 chucks, but no jaws or nuts. I could make nuts, but no sense when I have no jaws either.
How often are you supposed to tear a chuck down and clean them? I'm thinking while I have a few days I might pull the chuck completely down and that will probably lead to taking the turret apart too.
How often are you supposed to tear a chuck down and clean them? I'm thinking while I have a few days I might pull the chuck completely down and that will probably lead to taking the turret apart too.
If they are regularly greased and running clean metals,pretty much never need teardown. Not greasing or running scaly, short chipping, or cast materials might need work every year or so.
On a used machine, if one has the time it would be a great idea. Let you see the condition at least.
On a used machine, if one has the time it would be a great idea. Let you see the condition at least.
Might make some chips with this thing today.
I think Daewoo cut some corners with the turret and tool blocks on these machines. All my other lathes- Mori, Okuma, Leadwell, Mazak and even the lowly Hardinge have semi-hard turrets and hard toolblocks. Definitely not mild steel. They aren't soft.
This Puma's turret is not hard. All the 8mm threads are pulled from the turret. All of them. The PO tapped most of them out to 3/8"-16 and cobbled together some bullshit wedges that I didn't get with the machine.
All the ID tool blocks are cast steel or maybe nodular iron. They're soft as butter. The 2" bores are all worn oversize about 10 thou.
I can get running in the short term, but I can't live with the turret fucked all to hell limiting what tooling I put in which position.
I guess the first step is probably to pull the turret and see what's behind all existing stripped out holes. If I can drill and tap them all an additional inch deep and just run longer bolts then problem should be solved for awhile.
Other thoughts on thread repair for a turret?
Should I try sleeving the ID tool blocks or just make new ones?
I think Daewoo cut some corners with the turret and tool blocks on these machines. All my other lathes- Mori, Okuma, Leadwell, Mazak and even the lowly Hardinge have semi-hard turrets and hard toolblocks. Definitely not mild steel. They aren't soft.
This Puma's turret is not hard. All the 8mm threads are pulled from the turret. All of them. The PO tapped most of them out to 3/8"-16 and cobbled together some bullshit wedges that I didn't get with the machine.
All the ID tool blocks are cast steel or maybe nodular iron. They're soft as butter. The 2" bores are all worn oversize about 10 thou.
I can get running in the short term, but I can't live with the turret fucked all to hell limiting what tooling I put in which position.
I guess the first step is probably to pull the turret and see what's behind all existing stripped out holes. If I can drill and tap them all an additional inch deep and just run longer bolts then problem should be solved for awhile.
Other thoughts on thread repair for a turret?
Should I try sleeving the ID tool blocks or just make new ones?
Mr. M
Active member
I would drill them out and install HD Keen-Serts if there is room
Is it possible for this machine to NOT have canned cycles? How do I tell?
I just drilled for the first time on this Puma. Had to remove G81 and finger cam it. Alarm said "Illegal G-code" at the G81 line.
I just drilled for the first time on this Puma. Had to remove G81 and finger cam it. Alarm said "Illegal G-code" at the G81 line.
AJ H
Active member
I can't confirm on this model but there is a precedent for such things. My OT-A Star doesn't have them. My tech says it's the "work-truck, crank-window" model
Very typical for a non live tooled lathe to not have the G80 range of canned cycles.
Hello Garwood,
The alarm number that resulted would have been a p/s010 alarm. If that is raised with any of the typical Canned Cycle "G" codes, that is evidence enough that the control does not have those cycles.
Unless the lathe has live tools, its not common for the control to have the Canned Cycles you're used to on a Machining Centre, such as G81, G82, etc. These are Options and seldom supplied unles specifically ordered.
What is more likely for your machine to have is G74, End Face Peck Drilling. The Canned Cycles you referred to with G81, use G80 (or any Group1 G Code) to cancel. The G74 Cycle is more like the other Milt-repetitive Cycles G71, G72, etc. and although G74 is listed by Fanuc as an End Face Peck Drilling Cycle, its actually an End Face Peck Grooving Cycle, where an End Coordinate in X and an amount of Step Over can be specified. The syntax for its use with controls that use the two line format for Milt-repetitive (Standard FS16 Format) is as follows
G74R (e) ;
G74X Z P(i) Q(k) R(d) F (f ) ;
Where:
X = X coordinate of the opposite side of the Groove from where you start the Groove in X
Z = Z coordinate of the bottom of the Groove.
e =Retract amount after each Peck
i = Step Over in X
k = Peck amount in Z
d = Relief from the wall of the Groove being cut at the completion of each cut down to the Z coordinate.
Care needs to be taken when specifying R(d), because on the first cut into solid metal there is nowhere for the tool to be able to step sideways
when at the bottom of the first cut. Accordingly, when cutting a groove into solid material, an initial Groove needs to be cut with no side relief R(d) value, then a second Grooving Cycle specified to widen the Groove and use R(d) with a value to relieve the tool from the side of the Groove on retract to start subsequent cuts.
f = Feed Rate
From the above, it should be obvious that by specifying the components of the Cycle with the same Finish X value as the Start X, no Step Over P(i) and no relief from the side of the Groove at the bottom of the Groove R(d), you can use it as a Peck Drilling Cycle. For example:
G00 X0.0 Z10.0
G01 Z1.0 F1.0
G74 R(e)
G74 X0.0 Z-50.0 Q5.0 F0.25 (The X address can be omitted for a drilling operation, or when the Groove is the same width as the tool)
Sorry Kevin. I didn't mean to steal your thunder regarding typical Canned Cycles found on machining Centres, not being supplied on lathes unless they have live tools; you Posted while I was typing my long winded reply.
Regards,
Bill
Last edited:
Thanks Bill and Kevin!
I didn't even think that maybe it was the wrong canned cycle. I'm learning a new CAM software and that's what it spit out. I will use G73/G74.
Hello Garwood,
You can use the G74 Cycle for drilling, but I'd give the use of a Drill with the G73 Cycle a miss; G73 is a Profile Repeat Cycle (think roughing a Casting of Forging, where the blank is already the approximate shape). G75 is a Grooving Cycle cutting in the X Axis and uses a similar syntax to that of G74 but with addresses to suit cutting in the X axis. If you had a live tool pointing along the X axis, the G75 Cycle can be used as a Peck Drilling Cycle in the X Axis.
Regards,
Bill
Barbter
Well-known member
Following on from the guys responses....I had a Warner Swasey 2axis WSC6. This was 1989 and 0TA control.
It had G74 and an example of the code is below. The peck amount (Q) is 2.5mm (2500 units of 1x micron/least increment).
It had G74 and an example of the code is below. The peck amount (Q) is 2.5mm (2500 units of 1x micron/least increment).
Hello Barbter,
The G80 after the Cycle is not required; Its not that type of Canned Cycle, its part of the G70 – G76 Multi-repetitive Cycles, none of which require a cancellation code, they are all one off applications that come to an end on completion of the Cycle.
Regards,
Bill
The G80 after the Cycle is not required; Its not that type of Canned Cycle, its part of the G70 – G76 Multi-repetitive Cycles, none of which require a cancellation code, they are all one off applications that come to an end on completion of the Cycle.
Regards,
Bill
Last edited:
Barbter
Well-known member
Thanks Bill - every day's a school day!
That may have come in handy when I had the lathe back in 2007/2008 as that small memory was a PITA!
I wish I was smart enough to retain everything I've learned about fanuc troubleshooting. Seems like as I've gotten newer, better machines I use the info less and it gets replaced with whatever info I'm currently learning and using...
A little while ago I pulled the turret off this Puma to clean and align stuff. While I had the machine up and running to jog things around during reassembly, doing nothing, machine just sitting statically, The control shut down, screen blank.
Turned breaker off, turned breaker on, push control on button and CRT comes on with NOT READY. Haven't got past this screen.
I've been busy with other things. Figured it probably lost a DC power supply. Well, I need to use this Puma again soon so figured I better get to troubleshooting today. I checked the DC stuff and we have good 24V all over. The batteries are all good. No alarms anywhere. The control LED indicator lamps are in "waiting for servo ready" mode. The servo and spindle drives are not ready. There is a Relay, KA21, that sends AC to the drives. This relay is off.
Relay KA21 coil is labeled MRY.R in the ladder and is controlled by a board in the operator console, mounted just below the CRT A16B-2200-0660. This looks like an I/O board to me. The board has a lit green LED on it. 5V and 24V check pins check good. This is as far as I've got.
Any ideas what to check next?
A little while ago I pulled the turret off this Puma to clean and align stuff. While I had the machine up and running to jog things around during reassembly, doing nothing, machine just sitting statically, The control shut down, screen blank.
Turned breaker off, turned breaker on, push control on button and CRT comes on with NOT READY. Haven't got past this screen.
I've been busy with other things. Figured it probably lost a DC power supply. Well, I need to use this Puma again soon so figured I better get to troubleshooting today. I checked the DC stuff and we have good 24V all over. The batteries are all good. No alarms anywhere. The control LED indicator lamps are in "waiting for servo ready" mode. The servo and spindle drives are not ready. There is a Relay, KA21, that sends AC to the drives. This relay is off.
Relay KA21 coil is labeled MRY.R in the ladder and is controlled by a board in the operator console, mounted just below the CRT A16B-2200-0660. This looks like an I/O board to me. The board has a lit green LED on it. 5V and 24V check pins check good. This is as far as I've got.
Any ideas what to check next?
Last edited: